A mí me encanta reciclar cosas viejas. Si tienen alguna falda de la que no se pueden deshacer, pueden convertirla en delantal y así darle una nueva vida. Hoy les voy a mostrar cómo hacerlo. Las fotos hoy son más pequeñas de lo normal, de modo que hagan clic sobre ellas para agrandarlas.
La falda que tengo es perfecta porque no tiene cierres ni botones, solo elástico en la cintura. Para este tutorial, las tiras de la cintura las hice en base al delantal “Italiano Kitchen Mama Apron” de Sew4Home.com. Si no conocen este sitio, les recomiendo que lo visiten. Muchísimos proyectos de costura super lindos y con instrucciones sumamente detalladas. A mí me encanta.
Falda del delantal: En primer lugar es necesario descoser las costuras de los costados or cortar a lo largo de ellas. Entonces tendremos 2 piezas. Tomar una y decidir cuán larga queremos que sea la falda del delantal, de la cintura para abajo. Doblar la falda a lo largo y marcar con un alfiler el lugar donde hay que cortar. Asegurarse de que el pliegue del miedo esté derecho. Para ello recomiendo usar una estera de cortar.
Hacer un corte derecho. Abrir la falda y terminar los costados con la máquina overlock o con una costura zig-zag.
Doblar los costados 1/2” hacia adentro y planchar, luego coserlos. Abajo ya tenemos el dobladillo hecho, ¡qué práctico!
Tiras del cuello: No tengo fotos de este paso, pero son fáciles de hacer. Cortar dos tiras de 3" x 24". Doblar cada una a la mitad, a lo largo y coser con un margen de costura de ¼" a lo largo y uno de los anchos. Recortar las esquinas, dar vuelta las tiras hacia el derecho a través del extremo abierto y plancharlas bien. Nota: Existen unos tubitos para dar vuelta tiras, que son super prácticos y deberían considerar porque facilitan muchísimo la tarea, especialmente cuando las tiras son super finitas.
Peto: Primero debemos decidir qué tamaño y qué forma queremos que tenga el peto. El mío lo hice rectangular, pero también se puede hacer en forma de trapecio o con los lados curvos, para lo cual se puede usar otro delantal como plantilla. ¡Hay muchas opciones!
Para hacer mi peto, corté un pedazo con la segunda mitad de la falda de 11” de ancho x 12” de largo (casi un cuadrado). Después corté un rectángulo para cubrir las cintas del cuello, de 2-3/4” de ancho. El largo de este pedazo debe ser 1” menos que el ancho de la parte superior del peto. En mi caso, 10”.
Doblar el borde inferior 1/4” hacia el revés y planchar. Colocar el peto con el derecho hacia arriba sobre la mesa. Marcar el medio con un alfiler y luego colocar las tiras del cuello a 3/4” de cada borde lateral, alineando arriba los bordes sin coser.
Colocar encima el rectángulo más pequeño, con el revés hacia arriba, y asegurarse de alinear su punto medio con el del peto. Asegurar todo con alfileres y coser con un margen de 1/4”.
Planchar y llevar el rectángulo pequeño hacia el revés del peto.
Coser a lo largo del borde superior y del inferior, cerca de los bordes.
Ahora vamos a hacer un dobladillo en los costados del peto. Doblar dos veces 1/4” hacia el revés. Planchar, asegurar con alfileres y coser. ¡El peto está listo!
Armado del delantal: Colocar el peto sobre la falda del delantal, derecho con derecho, alineando el borde inferior del peto con el borde superior de la falda. Asegurarse también de alinear el punto medio de ambas piezas. Coser con un margen de 1/4”, planchar y separar el peto de la falda.
Tira de la cintura: Decidir qué largo tendrá la tira de la cintura. Yo pienso que 60-70" es un buen largo. Supongamos que medirá aproximadamente 70” de largo. Será necesario cortar 4 tiras de 35.5” de largo x 2.5” de ancho. Coser 2 tiras por el borde de 2.5” y hacer lo mismo con las otras dos. Planchar la costura, abriéndola. Ahora colocar ambas tiras largas, una sobre la otra y derecho con derecho.
Medir el ancho del peto y de la falda. Mi peto mide 9” y la falda 18” de ancho. De modo que debo dejar una abertura de 10" en la parte superior de la tira y otra abertura de 19" en la parte inferior. Hice este diagrama muy primitivo para mostrarles cómo hay que coser la tira (obviamente no está a escala). La línea negra es la línea de la costura. Con un margen de 1/4”, comencé a coser a 5” del medio de la tira por un costado, luego la punta y después por el costado de abajo. Me detuve a 9.5” del medio. Hice lo mismo del otro lado.
Una vez que la tira está cosida, recortar las esquinas y darla vuelta hacia el derecho. Plancharla bien, y planchar también los márgenes de costura de las aberturas ¼" hacia el revés, de modo que los bordes sin coser estén a la misma altura que los bordes ya cosidos.
Ahora insertar el delantal a través de la tira, de abajo para arriba.
Asegurarse de que los bordes de la tira estén perfectamente alineados y cerrar las aberturas con la máquina.
¡El delantal quedó listo!
Pueden usar su creatividad y agregar un bolado debajo, un bolsillo, etc. ¡Las posibilidades no tienen límite! Yo me contenté simplemente con un "appliqué".
Déjenme saber si tienen preguntas. ¡Ahora vayan a rescatar una falda vieja!
Tuesday, April 19, 2011
Tutorial: Cómo convertir una falda vieja en un delantal
Labels:
Delantales
Tutorial: Turn an old skirt into an apron
I love recycling old things. Do you have an old skirt that you can’t bear to part with? Turn it into an apron and give it a new life! Today I will show you how. The pictures today are smaller than normal. Please click on them to enlarge them!
The skirt I have is perfect because it doesn’t have zippers or buttons, just an elastic waist. I based the waist ties part of this tutorial on the “Italiano Kitchen Mama Apron” from Sew4Home.com. If you don’t know this website, you should check it out! Lots of wonderful sewing projects with super detailed instructions. I am a big fan.
Apron skirt: First of all you need to undo your skirt’s side seams, or cut really close to them. You will then have 2 pieces. Grab one of the pieces and decide how long you want the apron to be from the waist down. Fold the skirt piece in two lengthwise and mark the spot where you will need to cut with a pin. Make sure the middle crease is straight (a cutting mat works best for this).
Make a straight cut. Open the skirt and serge the side seams. You can finish them with a zig-zag, too.
Fold the side seams 1/2” and press. Then stitch with your machine. The bottom is already hemmed for you, how practical!
Neck ties: I don’t have pictures of this step, but they’re easy to make. Cut two 3" x 24" strips. Fold each one in half lengthwise and stitch with a ¼" seam allowance along the length of the tie and across one end. Trim the corners, turn right side out through the open end, and press flat. Note: If you don’t have tube turners, then you should consider investing in a set. They really make turning tubes a breeze!!
Apron bib: Decide how big you want the apron bib and what shape you would like it to have. I made mine rectangular, but you can opt for a trapeze or maybe curved sides, for which you can use another apron as a template. Lots of choices here!
For my bib, I cut a piece out of the second skirt piece measuring 11” in width x 12” in length (almost a square). Then I cut another piece to cover the neck ties, 2-3/4” wide. The length should be 1” less than the width of the apron bib top. In my case, then, it should be 10”.
Fold the bottom edge 1/4” towards the wrong side and press. Now place the apron bib right side up on the table. Mark the middle point with a pin and then place the neck ties 3/4” from either side, aligning the raw edges.
Now place the smaller rectangle on top, wrong side up, making sure to align its middle point with that of the apron bib. Pin everything and stitch with a 1/4” seam allowance.
Now press and then fold the smaller rectangle towards the apron bib’s wrong side.
Topstitch both along the top and the bottom, close to the edges.
Now we’re going to hem the sides of the apron bib. Fold the sides twice 1/4” towards the wrong side. Press, pin, and sew. Your apron bib is ready!
Apron assembly: Place the apron bib over the apron skirt, right sides together, aligning the bottom of the bib with the top of the skirt. Also make sure to align the middle points of both pieces. Stitch with a 1/4” seam allowance, press and fold the bib away from the skirt.
Waist ties: Decide how long you want the waist ties to be. I think that 60-70 inches is a good length. Let’s suppose you want the ties to be about 70” long. You will need to cut 4 strips 35.5” long x 2.5” wide. Sew 2 strips together along the 2.5” edge and repeat with the other two. Press the seam open. Now match both strips right sides together.
Measure how wide the apron bib and the apron skirt are. My bib is 9” wide and the skirt is 18” wide. So I will leave a 10" opening along the top of the waistband and a 19" opening along the bottom of the waist band. I made this very primitive drawing to show you how you’re supposed to sew (obviously, not to scale). The black line is the seamline. Using a 1/4” seam allowance, I started sewing 5” from the middle of my waistband along one side, across the end and along the bottom long side. I stopped 9.5” from the middle. I repeated this on the other side.
Once your waistband is sewn, clip the corners and turn it inside out. Press the waistband and also the opening seam allowances in ¼" so that the raw edges are flush with the sewn edges.
Now insert the apron through the waistband from the bottom up.
Make sure that the waist ties are perfectly aligned and sew the openings shut.
Your apron is ready!
You can get creative and add a ruffle at the bottom, a pocket, etc. The possibilities are endless! I was just content with a little appliqué.
Please let me know if you have any questions. Now go salvage an old skirt!
The skirt I have is perfect because it doesn’t have zippers or buttons, just an elastic waist. I based the waist ties part of this tutorial on the “Italiano Kitchen Mama Apron” from Sew4Home.com. If you don’t know this website, you should check it out! Lots of wonderful sewing projects with super detailed instructions. I am a big fan.
Apron skirt: First of all you need to undo your skirt’s side seams, or cut really close to them. You will then have 2 pieces. Grab one of the pieces and decide how long you want the apron to be from the waist down. Fold the skirt piece in two lengthwise and mark the spot where you will need to cut with a pin. Make sure the middle crease is straight (a cutting mat works best for this).
Make a straight cut. Open the skirt and serge the side seams. You can finish them with a zig-zag, too.
Fold the side seams 1/2” and press. Then stitch with your machine. The bottom is already hemmed for you, how practical!
Neck ties: I don’t have pictures of this step, but they’re easy to make. Cut two 3" x 24" strips. Fold each one in half lengthwise and stitch with a ¼" seam allowance along the length of the tie and across one end. Trim the corners, turn right side out through the open end, and press flat. Note: If you don’t have tube turners, then you should consider investing in a set. They really make turning tubes a breeze!!
Apron bib: Decide how big you want the apron bib and what shape you would like it to have. I made mine rectangular, but you can opt for a trapeze or maybe curved sides, for which you can use another apron as a template. Lots of choices here!
For my bib, I cut a piece out of the second skirt piece measuring 11” in width x 12” in length (almost a square). Then I cut another piece to cover the neck ties, 2-3/4” wide. The length should be 1” less than the width of the apron bib top. In my case, then, it should be 10”.
Fold the bottom edge 1/4” towards the wrong side and press. Now place the apron bib right side up on the table. Mark the middle point with a pin and then place the neck ties 3/4” from either side, aligning the raw edges.
Now place the smaller rectangle on top, wrong side up, making sure to align its middle point with that of the apron bib. Pin everything and stitch with a 1/4” seam allowance.
Now press and then fold the smaller rectangle towards the apron bib’s wrong side.
Topstitch both along the top and the bottom, close to the edges.
Now we’re going to hem the sides of the apron bib. Fold the sides twice 1/4” towards the wrong side. Press, pin, and sew. Your apron bib is ready!
Apron assembly: Place the apron bib over the apron skirt, right sides together, aligning the bottom of the bib with the top of the skirt. Also make sure to align the middle points of both pieces. Stitch with a 1/4” seam allowance, press and fold the bib away from the skirt.
Waist ties: Decide how long you want the waist ties to be. I think that 60-70 inches is a good length. Let’s suppose you want the ties to be about 70” long. You will need to cut 4 strips 35.5” long x 2.5” wide. Sew 2 strips together along the 2.5” edge and repeat with the other two. Press the seam open. Now match both strips right sides together.
Measure how wide the apron bib and the apron skirt are. My bib is 9” wide and the skirt is 18” wide. So I will leave a 10" opening along the top of the waistband and a 19" opening along the bottom of the waist band. I made this very primitive drawing to show you how you’re supposed to sew (obviously, not to scale). The black line is the seamline. Using a 1/4” seam allowance, I started sewing 5” from the middle of my waistband along one side, across the end and along the bottom long side. I stopped 9.5” from the middle. I repeated this on the other side.
Once your waistband is sewn, clip the corners and turn it inside out. Press the waistband and also the opening seam allowances in ¼" so that the raw edges are flush with the sewn edges.
Now insert the apron through the waistband from the bottom up.
Make sure that the waist ties are perfectly aligned and sew the openings shut.
Your apron is ready!
You can get creative and add a ruffle at the bottom, a pocket, etc. The possibilities are endless! I was just content with a little appliqué.
Please let me know if you have any questions. Now go salvage an old skirt!
Labels:
Aprons
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